Homo Faber Fellowship:
Vanessa Barragão & Yaroslava Shkurat
Textile design - Portugal

Master Artisan: Vanessa Barragão, textile design, Portugal

Fellow: Yaroslava Shkurat, Ecole Duperré, Ukraine

Upcycling waste for textile design from Portugal to Ukraine, discover the duo with a shared philosophy.

From her workshop in the south of Portugal textile designer Vanessa Barragão makes highly creative handmade tapestries from recycled textiles. Her creations demonstrate her mastery of traditional techniques such as latch hook, crochet and felt needle and how she uses these in contemporary ways to convey important messages about the threats our planet is facing today. Young Ukrainian textile designer Yaroslava Shkurat recently finished a course in embroidery at Ecole Duperré in Paris, which followed six years of studying weaving and tapestry making in Lviv. She is fascinated by weaving textiles from discarded or used fabrics, and has recently collaborated with a fashion designer to create a collection of unique textiles.

Yaroslava: What sparked your interest in textile design?

Vanessa: I studied fashion design in Lisbon, but soon realised it was not for me. As a child I used to draw a lot and enjoy crochet which my grandparents taught me. So during my master’s I started to explore textiles more. I completed my first tapestry during this time. When I finished my studies, I went to work at a textile factory in Porto and created pieces in my spare time as a hobby. I set up my first studio in 2018 when I started to receive more commissions.

Vanessa: Why did you choose textile design?

Yaroslava: When I was a little girl I was interested in painting, so later on I decided to apply for art school. I was trying to choose which department and as I loved colours, the teacher suggested weaving. It is similar to painting as it allows you to play with colours and textures. Then I specialised in tapestry making.

Yaroslava: What is special about your workshop in Albufeira?

Vanessa: I recently moved to a bigger workshop, so we have space for more collaborations. I want to create an arts community here in the south of Portugal – a place for exchange, conversations – inspired by the vibrant art scene in Porto, now that I have the facilities. The technique I use the most is hand tufting, which requires big looms so space is essential. I moved back to Albufeira because my family is from here, for the natural light and the ocean on my doorstep.

Vanessa: Does Ukraine have a weaving tradition which has influenced you?

Yaroslava: Yes, the west of Ukraine is known for traditional craft weaving. There are a lot of sheep there, so the artisans make carpets from the wool. It’s very different to contemporary weaving, but it’s inspiring to see the old hand looms in use.

Yaroslava: You use waste fabric for your tapestries. How did this idea begin?

Vanessa: I buy leftovers from textile factories in the north of Portugal. I came up with the idea when I was working in the textile factory in Porto and I saw how much waste there was. The textiles are already coloured when we receive them – but we have to clean and package it and store it ready for use. For our planet’s health, we need to find production methods that are sustainable and employing traditional techniques offers a creative solution to upcycling waste.

Vanessa: What do your creations seek to convey?

Yaroslava: To show people that we do not need to keep producing new materials, but that we can use what we have available – upcycle, recycle. I want to illustrate how recycled materials can work for haute couture, they should not be considered ‘unfashionable’.

Yaroslava: What inspires your tapestries?

Vanessa: My fascination for the ocean, it has the most beautiful ecosystems that are hidden beneath its surface. I love making the marine world visible to show the threats it is facing, such as the bleaching of coral due to global warming. Bringing my creations into people’s homes, to museums and galleries is a way of showing people what is happening to our oceans and building awareness.

Vanessa: What is your dream for the future?

Yaroslava: To have my own studio in Ukraine which only uses recycled materials. It is a concept that does not currently exist in the Ukrainian textile industry. I would like to inspire this approach towards creation.

Yaroslava: What is the main reason that you applied for the Fellowship?

Vanessa: I always have interns, normally for three months at a time. We help each other– it gives me a chance to pass on my knowledge and skills which are part of my country’s culture. When I started, I did not know how to run my own studio and business – it is not taught at school. I want to welcome young creatives to come and see each part of the process and experiment – this is what motivates me. So, if like you, one day they want to open their own studio, they have a better idea how to.

Vanessa Barragão and Yaroslava Shkurat are one of the 21 selected established artisan and fellow duos taking part in the first edition of Homo Faber Fellowship.

Discover more about the programme on michelangelofoundation.org